Analysis of Collection: Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2024
This analysis delves into the haute couture Spring-Summer 2024 collection by Schiaparelli, titled "SCHIAPARALIEN." Designer Daniel Roseberry crafts a narrative that transcends the confines of traditional fashion paradigms. Roseberry develops a conspicuous collection, against a backdrop of technological advancements and the enduring allure of the American West. The past converges with the future in a metallic display of creativity and ingenuity, while also paying homage to the designer's personal references and societal influences. Themes of evolution, fusion, and transformation permeate the collection, embodied in the convergence of old-world techniques with contemporary aesthetics. Daniel Roseberry’s surrealist sci-fi Western inspiration behind the collection makes for an inquisitive analysis. The purpose of this paper is to dissect the collection's themes, inspirations, and artistic choices, exploring how it merges elements of classic Americana with futuristic motifs. Through a thorough examination of the collection's design elements, historical context, and cultural significance, this paper aims to uncover how fashion serves as a medium for storytelling, bridging the realms of the past and the future, all while birthing the “Robo-Baby” on the runway.
Schaparelli, an illustrious name in the annals of fashion, traces its roots back to the visionary Elsa Schiaparelli, an Italian designer whose avant-garde creations revolutionized the fashion landscape of the early 20th century. Establishing her eponymous house in Paris in 1927, Schiaparelli swiftly became known for her daring and innovative designs, which often challenged conventional notions of beauty and femininity. Collaborating with artists such as Salvador Dalí and Jean Cocteau, Schiaparelli imbued her garments with surrealistic elements, captivating the imagination of the fashion world. Throughout its history, the House of Schiaparelli has continued to push boundaries, blending artistry with craftsmanship to create garments that defy expectations and inspire generations of designers. The designer of Schaparelli’s Haute Couture S/S 2024 is David Roseberry. Roseberry has established himself as a pioneer in the fashion industry, known for his bold experimentation with materials, textures, and silhouettes. His designs exude a sense of refined elegance, often characterized by meticulous attention to detail and a keen eye for proportion. Beyond his technical prowess, Roseberry's creations possess a distinct narrative quality, drawing inspiration from diverse sources ranging from art and architecture to literature and pop culture. His ability to seamlessly fuse avant-garde concepts with timeless sophistication has earned him acclaim among critics and aficionados alike, cementing his reputation as a trailblazer in the world of fashion.
“SCHIAPARALIEN” Spring 2024 Haute Couture has all the components of a captivating display of a collection; robo-babies, martians, and cowboys. Drawing its inspiration from Elsa Schiaparelli's personal preoccupation with astrology and the family's connection to the discovery of Martian channels, the collection embraces a dichotomy of the familiar and the otherworldly. The runway presentation unfolds like a journey through time and space, accompanied by a cinematic soundtrack. Roseberry combined his filmic references with his lifelong passion for haute couture, choosing the 20th Century Fox fanfare as the opening soundtrack, followed by excerpts from "Top Gun," "Alien," and "Oppenheimer.". The models are seen walking the runway, almost as if they were aliens who studied the human walk, with a confident gait, stiff arms, forward chest, and an expressionless face. This collection has a scaled back use of color mainly consisting of black, white, and nudes, which works well with the accentuating silhouettes. Figure 1 is an Elsa Schiaparelli-inspired dress, in shiny black vinyl enhanced with a white crochet collar in contrasting silk thread, decorated with a Swarovski crystal brooch and tonal topstitching. The technical use of crochet as a collar enhances the Texas-Americana aspect of the show. Crochet has been important in the history of Mexican craftsmanship and the culture of women in Southern families. For example, Mexican artisans have used maguey cacti to create thread that is similar to crochet, and this craft is still practiced today in many Mexican states. In addition, sewing and embroidery have been utilitarian for women in non-wealthy Southern families. The look is completed with black leather cowboy-inspired mules embellished with a metal toe cap and signature “S”-shaped heels. We also see the use of crochet in Figure 13. An ensemble consisting of a top mounted on a metal structure entirely covered with threads and hand-embroidered in guipure style, and a matching, entirely embroidered pencil skirt. Figure 13 is a clear juxtaposition of the designer's large Martian-esque silhouettes and traditional fabric types, like crochet and velvet.
Art and nature consistently demonstrate, elements and concepts that appear to be polar opposites can merge to form surprising hybrids. David Roseberry expounds art, and nature, as “teaching us again and again. The things and ideas that seem diametrically opposed to each other can also combine to make startling chimeras, objects composed of familiar parts that, when united, create something unexpected and new.” Having Figure 7 and 20 in the same collection shows that Roseberry exudes his theories of art and nature into his designs. The eye-catching Robot dress(Figure 7) is enhanced with exaggeratedly rounded shoulders entirely embroidered with Swarovski crystal jewels and electronic chips in silver and green.The juxtaposition of intricate embroidery and electronic components serves as a visual representation of the tension between the analog and the digital, the human and the machine. The Robot Dress speaks directly to the cultural zeitgeist, particularly the millennial and Gen Z generations' penchant for nostalgic revivalism. In an age where vintage technology from the early 2000s, such as flip phones and digital cameras, is experiencing a resurgence in popularity,the meticulously handcrafted Swarovski crystals juxtaposed with the metallic chips evoke a sense of nostalgia for the craftsmanship of bygone eras. Schiaparelli's creation taps into this collective longing for the simplicity and familiarity of the past. Beneath its shimmering surface lies a deeper commentary on the implications of our ever-evolving relationship with technology. Society grapples with questions surrounding the ethical implications of artificial intelligence, data privacy concerns, and the impact of automation on the workforce. Figure 20 is one of the more Western-inspired designs . The extreme plastron with a vertiginous neckline crafted from stretch velvet and adorned with cowboy fringe and ecru contrasting strings serves as the focal point of the outfit. The vertiginous neckline further elevates the drama of the ensemble, drawing attention to the décolletage and framing the models silhouette in a daring and provocative manner. This bold design choice highlights Schiaparelli's penchant for unconventional and boundary-pushing creations, establishing a sense of theatricality. The addition of a black and white sequin bandana belt adds to the touch of nostalgia. The sequined bandana belt against the plush velvet and fringe detailing creates a striking visual contrast, further enhancing the overall impact of the ensemble. Complementing the statement plastron and belt are the extra-wide pants crafted from black wool satin. Historically, Texas has been a significant hub for wool production in the United States. The state's vast ranchlands and favorable climate provided ideal conditions for raising sheep, leading to a thriving wool industry.
David Roseberry says he was inspired by a show of Azzedine Alaïa's private collection of vintage haute couture garments. We see this inspiration in Figure 20 a column dress in black stretch velvet with an openwork bow-shaped bra at the top. The openwork at the top of the dress is very similar to A Madame Grès design from Azzedine Alaïa's private collection. Since this collection's themes are rooted in things with long historical value we see inspirations in several forms in the show. My personal favorite being the use of these large buckles seen in Figures 4,8 and 17. Belt buckles, while beloved across Western states, Texans have particularly embraced and personalized the tradition of wearing belt buckles. During the Civil War from 1861 to 1865, the United States adopted the practice of mass-producing friction belt buckles made of brass, which required pulling the belt behind and through the buckle to secure it. These buckles, lacking a prong or hole, were widely issued to soldiers. Post-war, many veterans retained their buckles as keepsakes. The iconic large buckles worn by cowboys trace their roots to those worn by European soldiers, emphasizing sharp appearances in battle. Different military units issued distinct belt buckles, facilitating easy identification.While Roseberry's Texas heritage influences his designs, his creations firmly establish themselves in the pinnacle of haute couture. Especially notable were the backs of the dresses, showcasing the impeccable craftsmanship synonymous with couture. From funnel collars intricately laced to the back of the neck resembling corsets, to armor-like silver spines extending towards the audience, and layers upon layers of fringe, each detail epitomized the artistry and attention to detail inherent in couture.
In conclusion, Schiaparelli's Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2024 collection, aptly titled "SCHIAPARALIEN," masterfully weaves together elements of surrealism, sci-fi, and Western influences to create a collection that captivates and intrigues. From the fusion of obsolete technology with couture craftsmanship to the daring proportions and unexpected juxtapositions, each garment tells a story of innovation and artistic expression. As Schiaparelli continues to push the envelope of haute couture, this collection stands as a testament to the brand's legacy of bold creativity and avant-garde vision, inspiring awe and admiration in the world of high fashion.
References
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